Teshima, a small island of rice terraces and fishing villages between Naoshima and Shodoshima, contains one of the world’s most unusual and affecting contemporary art institutions: the Teshima Art Museum — a shell-shaped concrete structure by architect Ryue Nishizawa containing a single permanent installation by artist Rei Naito. Visiting Teshima for the museum alone, then continuing through the island’s terraced rice paddies and shoreline installations, makes a profound counterpoint to Naoshima’s density.
Teshima Art Museum (豊島美術館)
The museum building — 40 m × 60 m at its widest, the shape of a water droplet seen from above, with no internal columns — was constructed by pouring concrete over an earthen mound, then removing the earth. Two circular openings in the roof bring wind, light, sound, and occasionally rain directly into the space. Rei Naito’s installation Mother uses the building itself: water wells up from tiny holes in the concrete floor and travels in unpredictable paths across the curved surface, pooling, merging, and evaporating. Visitors sit on the concrete floor for as long as they choose, watching water move. There is no explanation, no labeling, no other work. The experience typically runs 20–60 minutes; many visitors stay longer.
Entry ¥1,570; advance booking strongly recommended. Photography is not permitted inside the museum. The gift shop outside sells small reproductions and artist publications.
Other Teshima Art Installations
- Teshima Yokoo House: A converted traditional house transformed by artist Tadanori Yokoo into a vivid, disorienting installation of red-painted rooms, garden ponds, and stained glass — intensely colorful contrast to the Art Museum’s stillness. Entry ¥570.
- Les Archives du Coeur (Heart Archive): Christian Boltanski’s ongoing installation in a shoreside building — visitors can record their own heartbeat and add it to an archive; the recorded heartbeats of thousands of contributors play simultaneously in the listening room. Entry ¥520; heartbeat recording ¥1,570 additional.
- Teshima 8 Million Lab: Sou Fujimoto’s installation exploring small-scale science and nature observation — less visually dramatic but conceptually interesting for science-oriented visitors.
Karato Rice Terraces
Teshima’s inland topography — steep hillsides of rice terraces (tanada) abandoned as the island’s population declined — has been restored by the Setouchi Triennale’s agricultural revitalization program. Walking the terrace paths between the sea views and paddy fields, with the Teshima Art Museum visible in the distance, is the island’s most characteristically Japanese landscape experience. The terraces are particularly beautiful in early summer (flooded paddies reflecting sky) and late autumn (harvest gold).
Getting to Teshima
- From Naoshima: Ferry (Ieura Port, 35 min, ¥770). The natural combination for a two-island day trip or overnight.
- From Takamatsu: High-speed ferry (35 min, ¥1,570) or regular ferry (1 hour, ¥1,000).
- From Uno Port (Okayama): Ferry (40 min, ¥1,190).
- On the island: Rental bicycles (¥200/hour) connect the main sites; the island is small (14 sq km) but hilly. Electric bicycles recommended for less athletic visitors.
Practical Tips
- Teshima Art Museum requires advance booking; without a reservation, same-day entry is limited and often sold out during Setouchi Triennale sessions.
- The island has limited dining options — one well-regarded café (Café Lento, near the Art Museum) and a few simple restaurants in the fishing village. Pack provisions for a full-day visit.
- Combine with Naoshima (one ferry connection) for a two-island itinerary; stay overnight on Teshima to experience the island’s extraordinary morning quiet after day visitors depart.