The Shimanami Kaido is a 70-km cycling and walking route across six islands of the Seto Inland Sea, connected by a series of suspension bridges between Onomichi in Hiroshima Prefecture and Imabari in Ehime Prefecture. It is Japan’s most celebrated cycling route and one of the world’s great accessible bike journeys — flat to moderate terrain, spectacular sea views, dedicated cycling lanes, and a string of cycling-friendly towns and cafes along the way.
The Route
The Shimanami Kaido traverses: Onomichi → Mukaishima Island → Innoshima Island → Ikuchijima Island → Omishima Island → Hakatajima Island → Oshima Island → Imabari. The six bridges — all with dedicated cycling lanes or separate cycle paths — are the route’s engineering centrepieces. The longest span, the Nishiseto Expressway, includes the Tatara Bridge (890 m main span, one of the world’s longest cable-stayed bridges at time of completion). Cyclists follow blue-painted directional lines on road surfaces, making navigation straightforward without GPS.
Cycling Logistics
Rental bicycles are available at 13 terminals along the route (including Onomichi and Imabari) through the Giant Store Onomichi partnership and the Shimanami Cycle system. Standard bicycles rent for 1,100 yen/day; road bikes and e-bikes for 3,000-4,000 yen/day. One-way rental is available — pick up in Onomichi, return in Imabari (or vice versa) with no surcharge at official terminals. The full 70 km can be cycled in one day at a relaxed pace (5-7 hrs plus stops); two days is more comfortable and allows time for island exploration.
Islands & Highlights
Innoshima Island: site of the Innoshima Suigun Castle, a small museum dedicated to the Murakami pirates (suigun) who controlled the Seto Inland Sea in medieval times. Ikuchijima Island: home to Kosanji Temple — a flamboyant 20th-century complex replicating famous buildings from across Japan in white marble, built by a manufacturer as an act of filial piety. Adjacent Hirayama Ikuo Museum of Art contains the work of the island-born painter. Omishima Island: the ancient Oyamazumi Shrine contains the largest collection of samurai armour in Japan, donated as war offerings over centuries. Hakatajima: citrus orchards and very little tourist infrastructure — the most peaceful island on the route.
Sunrise & Setoda
The hilltop Kojo-jo Castle Ruins on Oshima Island offer the route’s finest panoramic views of the Seto Inland Sea — an expanse of islands and bridges catching afternoon light that recalls traditional Japanese ink painting. Setoda on Ikuchijima has a small townscape of historic merchant architecture and a beautiful 6th-century Buddhist hall at Kosanji. The town is developing as a slow-travel destination with art lodges, cafes, and design-led accommodation.
Onomichi
The route’s eastern gateway, Onomichi, is itself worth a day: a steep hillside town with 25 temple monuments on the Temple Walk path, a rope-way ascending to views across the Inland Sea, and a literary heritage (numerous Japanese novelists lived and wrote here). The town’s narrow lanes, cat population, and quiet harbour have made it one of Japan’s most charming small cities. Direct Shinkansen access from Tokyo (4 hrs) and Osaka (1.5 hrs) via Fukuyama or Mihara makes it a viable long-weekend destination.
Practical Tips
Best cycling seasons: March-May (mild, spring flowers) and October-November (autumn, lower humidity). Summer is hot and humid; rain gear is advisable year-round. Convenience stores (konbini) on each island provide reliable food and drink stops. Cycling jerseys and padded shorts significantly improve comfort on a full-day route. The route is suitable for average-fitness cyclists; e-bike rental removes most physical challenge. Accommodation ranges from cycling-focused guesthouses (onomichi-style) to midscale hotels in Imabari.