Setsubun (節分, literally ‘seasonal division’) marks the day before the beginning of spring in the traditional Japanese lunar calendar, celebrated on February 3 or 4 each year. It is one of Japan’s most beloved folk observances, combining ancient purification rituals, boisterous communal participation, and a refreshingly informal atmosphere compared to most Japanese festivals. For visitors in early February, it offers an accessible, deeply local experience available throughout Japan.
Mamemaki: The Bean Throwing Ritual
The central Setsubun tradition is mamemaki (bean throwing): roasted soybeans (fukumame) are thrown while chanting oni wa soto, fuku wa uchi (demons out, good fortune in). The beans symbolically purify the home or temple by driving out evil spirits. In private homes, the family member born in the current Chinese zodiac year, or the father of the household, dons an oni (demon/ogre) mask while other family members throw beans at them.
At temples and shrines, the ceremony is performed publicly on a larger scale — invited celebrities (toshiotoko/toshionna, people born in that year’s zodiac), sumo wrestlers, kabuki actors, and local dignitaries throw beans and sometimes mochi (rice cakes) and sweets into large crowds. Catching the beans is considered good luck.
Top Setsubun Celebrations
Naritasan Shinshoji Temple (Narita): one of Japan’s largest mamemaki events; sumo wrestlers and celebrities participate annually. Access: 45 minutes from Tokyo on the Narita Line. Yoshida Shrine (Kyoto): historic exorcism rites dating to 706 CE; the Tsuina demon-expulsion ceremony after dark is particularly atmospheric. Setsubun-sai at Heian Jingu (Kyoto): formal Shinto ritual mamemaki. Zojo-ji Temple (Tokyo/Shiba): mamemaki with views of Tokyo Tower as backdrop.
Ehomaki: The Lucky Direction Roll
A more recently popularized Setsubun tradition — originating in Osaka but now nationwide — involves eating an uncut ehomaki (thick sushi roll, also called futomaki) in silence while facing the year’s lucky compass direction (eho). The seven ingredients represent the Seven Lucky Gods. Ehomaki are sold at convenience stores and supermarkets throughout Japan from late January; supplies typically sell out by the morning of February 3.
- Oni masks and bean packages are sold at 100-yen shops and supermarkets from late January — participating in home mamemaki is simple and fun.
- February 3 at major temples attracts large crowds; arrive 30–45 minutes before scheduled mamemaki events for a good position.
- The atmosphere is jovial and welcoming to foreign visitors — bring the kids; the oni masks and flying beans delight children.
- Setsubun falls during Japan’s coldest period — dress warmly for outdoor temple events.