Miyajima (Itsukushima Island), in Hiroshima Bay, is one of Japan’s three officially designated “scenic views” (nihon sankei) and the site of the iconic floating torii gate — the orange torii of Itsukushima Shrine standing in the tidal shallows, framed by forested mountain slopes and the inland sea. The island is considered sacred in Shinto tradition; it was once forbidden to be born or die on the island (the dying and the very pregnant were ferried to the mainland). Today it is home to wild deer, an ancient shrine, a cable car mountain, and some of Japan’s finest maple leaf confections.
Getting to Miyajima
- From Hiroshima: JR Sanyo Line to Miyajimaguchi (25 min, ¥410), then JR Ferry (10 min, ¥200; free with JR Pass). Total approximately 40 minutes.
- From Hiroshima Peace Park area: Hiroshima Streetcar Line 2 or 6 to Miyajimaguchi-Sanbashi (50 min, ¥280), then ferry. Convenient from the city center without train transfer.
- Ferry companies: JR ferry (JR Pass valid) and Matsudai Kisen ferry (¥200, no pass) both run frequently. Journey time is identical.
Itsukushima Shrine (厳島神社)
The shrine complex — built over the tidal flats on a series of wooden piers — was established in its current form in 1168 by Taira no Kiyomori, the first samurai to hold political power in Japan. At high tide, the shrine and torii appear to float; at low tide, the sandy area around the torii can be walked. Both experiences are distinctive. The shrine’s architectural style — long red-lacquered corridors extending over the water, the stage for bugaku court music and kagura dance performances — is among Japan’s most elegant religious complexes. UNESCO World Heritage Site (1996). Entry ¥300.
The Floating Torii (大鳥居)
The 16-m torii gate standing in the tidal shallows — Japan’s most photographed torii — is the third structure on the site; the current gate dates to 1875 (rebuilt after storm damage to the previous 1847 structure). The gate is not anchored to the seabed by foundations but weighted by its own construction — the hollow pillars are filled with fist-sized stones. At high tide, boats can pass through the gate; visitors who wade out at low tide can touch the pillar base (wear sandals — the seabed is rocky). The best sunset photography: looking back at the gate from the water with the shrine behind and Hiroshima mountains in the distance.
Mt. Misen (弥山, 535 m)
The sacred mountain behind the shrine can be ascended by ropeway (two-stage, ¥2,000 round trip; to Shishiiwa Station, 15 min) or on foot (90–120 min hiking). The summit offers panoramic views of the Seto Inland Sea — the islands, ferry routes, and mainland visible on clear days. The summit area contains ancient Buddhist temple buildings including the Reikado (Hall of the Sacred Fire) — a flame said to have been burning continuously for 1,200 years since Kobo Daishi meditated here. The deer that wander the summit are treated with reverence as the mountain’s sacred inhabitants.
Deer
Miyajima’s deer — Sika deer considered messengers of the gods — wander freely throughout the island, including inside the shopping streets and at the ferry pier. Unlike Nara’s deer (which are fed by tourists), Miyajima’s deer are officially not to be fed, which makes them more independent-minded and occasionally bold about investigating bags for food. They are harmless but persistent. The deer among the torii at low tide is a classic Miyajima photograph.
Miyajima Food
- Momiji manju (紅葉饅頭): The Miyajima signature sweet — small maple-leaf-shaped steamed buns filled with red bean paste (anko), custard, or chocolate. Over 10 producers compete on the island; fresh-baked from fryer stalls are best. Taking home a box of momiji manju is the standard Hiroshima-area souvenir.
- Oysters: Miyajima (and Hiroshima Bay broadly) produces over 60% of Japan’s farmed oysters. The island’s restaurants serve them grilled, deep-fried (kaki furai), and raw. October–March is peak oyster season.
- Anago (conger eel): The other Miyajima specialty — conger eel rice (anago meshi) from Ueno restaurant (established 1905) remains the island’s most celebrated traditional meal.
Overnight vs. Day Trip
Miyajima is an excellent day trip from Hiroshima (last ferry approximately 11:00 PM) but an overnight stay transforms the experience: the evening departure of day visitors leaves the island to overnight guests, and the pre-dawn shrine visit before the morning ferry crowds arrive offers the most atmospheric encounter with the floating torii. Several ryokan and guesthouses operate on the island; the premium option is Iwaso Ryokan (established 1854), positioned in the maple valley behind the shrine.