The Seto Inland Sea
The Seto Inland Sea (Setonaikai) — the body of water enclosed between Honshu, Shikoku, and Kyushu — contains approximately 700 islands of varying size, many of them inhabited and interconnected by a network of ferry and high-speed boat services. The sea’s calm waters, island-studded views, and long history as Japan’s inland shipping lane have produced a distinctive maritime culture that persists in fishing communities, salt production villages, and the island art institutions that have transformed the region in recent decades.
The Art Island Circuit
The Setouchi Triennale art festival — held across multiple islands in the eastern Seto Sea every three years — has made the island circuit internationally known to art audiences. The three principal art islands are:
Naoshima: The original art island, developed by the Benesse Corporation from the 1990s, with two Tadao Ando-designed museum complexes (Chichu Art Museum and Benesse House Museum), Lee Ufan Museum, and a village of art-installation houses in the historic Honmura district. Chichu Art Museum’s permanent installation of Monet’s Water Lilies in a room designed around natural light is among Japan’s finest museum experiences.
Teshima: Home to the Teshima Art Museum — a minimal concrete shell by Ryue Nishizawa, containing a single permanent installation by Rei Naito in which water wells up from the floor in patterns controlled by the island’s humidity. Also home to terraced rice fields restored by island residents, and the Teshima Yokoo House gallery.
Inujima: The smallest of the art islands, with a copper smelter ruin (Inujima Seirensho Art Museum), minimal population, and art installations integrated into the remnants of the industrial landscape.
Non-Art Islands
The Setouchi circuit extends beyond the art islands. Ōmishima in Ehime contains the Oyamazumi Shrine, housing the largest collection of samurai armour in Japan — armour donated as offerings by victorious warriors over twelve centuries. Ikuchijima and the Shimanami Kaidō cycling route connect Ōshima and Mukaishima in a 60km cycling path across bridges and islands between Onomichi and Imabari. Shōdoshima is the largest island after the main island bridges, known for olive cultivation, soy sauce production, and the Kankakei gorge.
Ferry Logistics
The principal gateway ports are Uno (Okayama Prefecture, 15 min from Uno Station), Takamatsu (Kagawa), and Onomichi (Hiroshima). Ferry frequencies vary significantly — Naoshima has regular services from both Uno and Takamatsu throughout the day; smaller islands like Inujima have limited departures. Inter-island ferries connect the art islands directly during the Triennale; outside Triennale years, some routes require return to a main port. Island-hopping is typically planned around two-night stays to avoid rushed same-day visits.
Practical Notes
Museum reservation systems on Naoshima and Teshima operate by timed entry, particularly for Chichu Art Museum and Teshima Art Museum. Advance reservation is essential on weekends and during Triennale periods. Bicycle rental is available at most island ferry terminals; some islands have shuttle buses, but cycling is the standard transport mode. The islands close most museums on Mondays and Tuesdays; plan the circuit to have active museum days on Wednesday–Sunday.