Lake Biwa (Biwako) in Shiga Prefecture is Japan’s largest freshwater lake — 674 square kilometers and up to 104 meters deep, supplying water to the 14 million people of the Kinki region. Shiga Prefecture wraps around its shores, offering an undervisited Kansai destination with an original Edo-period castle, a rich freshwater food culture, cycling infrastructure rivaling Kyoto, and a more relaxed pace than Kyoto’s crowds just 30 minutes away.
Lake Biwa: Scale and Setting
Lake Biwa is ancient — one of the world’s oldest lakes at approximately 4 million years, resulting in dozens of endemic species found nowhere else. The lake is roughly the shape of a biwa (Japanese lute), which gives it its name. Its scale is striking in person: standing on the eastern shore near Hikone, the western mountains are visible as a faint blue line across 30–40 km of water. The Biwako Cycling Road circumnavigates the lake in approximately 195 km — a multi-day cycling route popular with touring cyclists, with hotels and campsites at intervals. Shorter sections are easily ridden as day rides from Hikone or Otsu.
Hikone Castle
Hikone Castle is one of Japan’s 12 original surviving castle keeps and considered one of the finest — a three-story tenshu (keep) with elaborate ornamental features perched on a stone wall above Hikone city. The castle was built between 1603 and 1622 by the Ii clan and never demolished or significantly damaged. The ornamental fish (shachihoko) on the roofline, the decorative nail covers, and the overall composition are preserved in exceptional original condition. The Hikone Castle Museum adjacent to the castle holds the Ii clan’s extraordinary collection of armor, tea ceremony implements, and painted screens — one of Japan’s best daimyo collection museums. The Genkyuen Garden, a stroll garden adjoining the castle grounds with views of the castle keep reflected in its central pond, is particularly beautiful in autumn.
Otsu and the Southern Shore
Otsu, Shiga’s prefectural capital, sits at the southern tip of Lake Biwa and is accessible from Kyoto in 10 minutes by JR Biwako Line. The city is largely undiscovered by foreign visitors despite its historical importance — Omi Jingu Shrine is dedicated to Emperor Tenji, who established Japan’s first water clock (rōkoku) here in the 7th century, and hosts the annual Ogawa Karuta competition (the inspiration for the anime/manga “Chihayafuru”). Miidera (Onjo-ji) Temple above the lakeshore is one of Japan’s great pilgrimage temples — sprawling across a wooded hillside with multiple national treasure halls, cherry trees, and an active monastic community. The lake views from the temple’s upper precinct at dawn are extraordinary.
Lake Biwa Food Culture
Lake Biwa’s endemic species underpin a distinctive freshwater cuisine. Funa-zushi — nigorobuna carp fermented in salt and rice for 1–3 years — is Japan’s oldest form of sushi (narezushi style) and an acquired taste valued by food enthusiasts; the pungent, complex flavor is challenging and fascinating. Available at specialty shops in Otsu and Moriyama. Saba-somen (soba noodles topped with lake fish), Omi beef (one of Japan’s three wagyu brands, from Shiga’s cattle), and Omiyaki (local pickled vegetables) are more approachable entry points to Shiga food culture. The lakeside town of Nagahama (30 minutes north of Hikone) has a popular morning market and excellent kuzu (kudzu) sweets.
Practical Notes
Shiga is easily reached from Kyoto (10–50 minutes depending on destination) and Osaka (30–60 minutes). The JR Biwako Line and Kosei Line serve the southern and western shores; the JR Biwako Line continues to Maibara for Shinkansen connections. Hikone is the most-visited town and has the best accommodation selection for overnight stays. The Hama Ōtsu Canal in Otsu — a historic waterway with cherry trees — is one of the Kansai’s quieter spring viewing spots. Cycling the full Biwako route requires 2–3 days; a single-day Hikone-Nagahama-Maibara loop (about 50 km flat) covers highlights without requiring high fitness.