The Kumano Kodo is a network of ancient pilgrimage routes through the Kii Mountain Range of Wakayama, Mie, and Nara prefectures, leading to the three Kumano Grand Shrines (Kumano Sanzan). With the Camino de Santiago in Spain, it is one of only two pilgrimage routes in the world jointly designated as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. For residents who enjoy long-distance walking or spiritual travel, the Kumano Kodo offers one of Japan’s most profound outdoor experiences.
The Three Kumano Grand Shrines
The pilgrimage’s three destinations are: Kumano Hongu Taisha — the most important, set in a forested valley; Kumano Hayatama Taisha in Shingu city on the coast; and Kumano Nachi Taisha overlooking Japan’s highest single-drop waterfall, Nachi Falls (133 meters). Each shrine has distinct architectural character and sacred atmosphere. The massive Oyunohara — the former site of Kumano Hongu Taisha, destroyed by flooding in 1889 — is now an open gravel field with the world’s largest torii gate (34 meters) standing in a riverside plain, creating an extraordinarily dramatic spiritual landscape.
The Routes
Several routes approach the Kumano Sanzan. The most walked is the Nakahechi Route (also called the Imperial Route) from Tanabe city on the coast to Kumano Hongu Taisha — approximately 70 km over 3–5 days, passing through villages, mountain passes (toge), and old stone-paved sections remarkably intact from the 10th century. The Kohechi Route from Koyasan to Kumano Hongu Taisha (70 km, 3–4 days) connects the two great pilgrimage destinations and is more demanding in terrain. The Ohechi Route hugs the Pacific coast. Most walkers complete 2–3 day sections rather than the full multi-week network. Stamps collected at each oji (subsidiary shrine) along the route are recorded in a pilgrim’s book available from tourist offices — a practice dating to the Heian period.
Walking the Nakahechi
The Nakahechi’s most beautiful and accessible section runs from Takijiri-oji (accessible by bus from Kii-Tanabe Station) to Kumano Hongu Taisha over 3 days, with accommodation at pilgrimage inns (minshuku and ryokan) in the villages of Chikatsuyu, Tsugizakura, and Koguchi. The trail ascends through ancient cedar and hinoki forest with moss-covered stone markers, passes stone water basins refilled by rainwater for pilgrims, and crosses mountain ridges with sea views. The stone-paved sections (oji-michi) are genuinely medieval in atmosphere. Luggage forwarding services operate between trailside accommodation, allowing walkers to carry only daypacks. The Kumano Tourism Bureau’s English-language planning materials are thorough and free.
Nachi Falls and Seiganto-ji
Nachi Falls (Nachi-no-Taki), at 133 meters Japan’s tallest single-drop waterfall, drops in a single vertical cascade into a deep pool — impressive in any season but extraordinary after heavy rain. The falls are considered a sacred body, with a small rope-bound sacred straw rope (shimenawa) across the basin. The adjacent Seiganto-ji Temple (Temple 1 of the Saigoku Kannon Pilgrimage) and its three-story red pagoda with the falls visible behind are one of Japan’s most iconic compositional images. The waterfall viewing platform is 5 minutes on foot from Kumano Nachi Taisha.
Practical Planning
The Kumano area is accessible from Osaka/Kyoto by JR limited express (Kuroshio) to Kii-Tanabe (2 hours) or Shingu (3.5 hours). The Kumano area receives Japan’s highest annual rainfall — trail sections can be slippery and river crossings occasionally closed after heavy rain. Best months: May–June and September–November avoid peak summer heat and typhoon season. June brings hydrangea blooms along the lower trail sections. The entire network is well-marked with bilingual signage and stone directional markers. The Kumano Hongu Heritage Center in Hongu has free English trail maps, current trail conditions, and transportation timetables essential for planning.