The izakaya (居酒屋) — Japan’s informal pub-restaurant — is the social heart of adult life in Japan. A hybrid between a bar and a restaurant, izakayas are where colleagues bond after work, friends celebrate, and strangers become acquaintances over shared plates and drinks. Knowing how to navigate them confidently opens up one of the most enjoyable aspects of Japanese social life.
What Is an Izakaya?
An izakaya is an informal drinking establishment that also serves food. The food is designed for sharing — multiple small dishes ordered throughout the evening rather than individual main courses. Alcohol (beer, sake, shochu, whisky highballs) is central, but non-alcoholic options are always available. The atmosphere ranges from rough-and-tumble neighborhood spots to polished modern chains.
The Basic Format
- Arrival: You’re seated and usually given oshibori (warm or cold hand towel)
- Otoshi (お通し): A small amuse-bouche dish arrives automatically — you’re charged ¥300–500 per person for this. It’s not optional; it’s the cover charge equivalent. Don’t be surprised by it.
- First drinks: The first order is usually drinks — “とりあえずビール” (toriaezu biru — “beer for now”) is the classic opening phrase
- Ordering food: Order multiple small dishes throughout the evening. Share everything in the center of the table.
- All-you-can-drink (飲み放題 nomihodai): Many izakayas offer set-time unlimited drink courses (¥1,500–2,500 for 2 hours) — popular for groups
- Bill: Requested with お会計 (okaikei) or the universal scissor-gesture with fingers
Types of Izakaya
Chain Izakayas (チェーン居酒屋)
Major chains dominate the affordable end:
- Torikizoku (鳥貴族): Yakitori (grilled chicken skewers) specialist; all items ¥360 uniformly — exceptional value, always busy
- Watami (和民): Comprehensive menu; consistent quality
- Shoya (庄や): Traditional izakaya format; wide menu
- Uotami (魚民): Seafood-focused; good for fish-centric Japanese dishes
- Kushikatsu Tanaka (串カツ田中): Kushikatsu (breaded deep-fried skewers) specialist; strict sauce-dipping etiquette (no double-dipping — サース二度漬け禁止)
Independent Local Izakayas
The narrow alley izakayas (横丁 yokocho) — Shinjuku’s Omoide Yokocho, Tokyo’s Memory Lane, Yurakucho under the tracks — are cramped, smoky, atmospheric institutions with decades of history. The counter seating forces conversation with neighbors. These are quintessential Tokyo experiences.
Standing Izakayas (立ち飲み tachinom)
No seats — you stand at a counter or barrel-top. Ultra-cheap, convivial, and extremely efficient. ¥500 buys two drinks and a small plate at some establishments. Popular after work for a quick drink before the commute.
Key Food to Order
- Edamame (枝豆): Boiled salted soybeans — standard opening snack
- Karaage (唐揚げ): Japanese fried chicken — universally excellent
- Yakitori (焼き鳥): Grilled chicken skewers (tare sauce or shio salt)
- Agedashi tofu (揚げ出し豆腐): Lightly fried tofu in dashi broth — silky texture
- Tsukemono (漬物): Japanese pickles — palate cleanser between drinks
- 締め (shime): “Closer” — the final dish, usually ramen, rice, or ochazuke (tea over rice)
Drinking Etiquette
- Wait until everyone has a drink before the first sip — the toast (乾杯 kampai) is initiated together
- Pouring for others rather than yourself is the custom — keep an eye on neighbors’ glasses
- Declining more alcohol: turn your glass upside down or simply place your hand over it when more is offered
- Beer is typically the first drink; subsequent orders often shift to shochu-based cocktails (チューハイ chūhai), highballs (ハイボール), or nihonshu