Ehime Prefecture, on Shikoku’s northwestern coast facing the Seto Inland Sea, combines Japan’s oldest hot spring, one of the country’s most dramatically situated original castles, and the world’s most celebrated cycling route. Matsuyama, the largest city on Shikoku, is a livable, literary city where tradition and everyday life sit comfortably together. For residents of western Japan, Ehime is among Shikoku’s most accessible and rewarding destinations.
Dogo Onsen: Japan’s Oldest Hot Spring
Dogo Onsen in Matsuyama is Japan’s oldest functioning hot spring resort, with references in the ancient Nihon Shoki chronicle and Manyoshu poetry anthology suggesting use for over 3,000 years. The main bathhouse, Dogo Onsen Honkan, is a three-story Meiji-era tiled structure (1894) that served as inspiration for the bathhouse in Hayao Miyazaki’s “Spirited Away” — though Miyazaki has noted it wasn’t a direct model. The building is undergoing phased renovation but remains partially open; the adjacent Tsubaki-no-yu and newer Asuka-no-yu are both operational. The hot spring town surrounding the bathhouse has shopping arcades, traditional sweets shops selling Botchan mochi and Tsubaki mochi, and numerous onsen hotels. Botchan — Natsume Soseki’s 1906 comic novel set in Matsuyama — gives the city much of its literary identity; statues and themed items referencing Soseki’s characters are everywhere.
Matsuyama Castle
Matsuyama Castle (completed 1820, original keep surviving intact) occupies a steep wooded mountain at the center of the city, accessible by ropeway/chairlift or a 20-minute forest path on foot. The castle is one of Japan’s 12 original surviving keeps and considered among the finest for its elevated dramatic position — the triple-towered tenshu visible from throughout the city. The castle grounds are famous for cherry blossoms in spring and autumn foliage. The Ninomaru History Garden at the castle’s lower level reconstructs the layout of the daimyo’s residence with labeled stone footings, and has a teahouse where visitors can drink local Ehime green tea.
Shimanami Kaido: Island-Hopping Cycling Route
The Shimanami Kaido is a 70 km express highway between Onomichi (Hiroshima Prefecture) and Imabari (Ehime) that crosses six Inland Sea islands via nine bridges. The bridges all have dedicated cycling and walking paths — the only express highway in Japan with such provision. The route is considered one of the world’s premier cycling experiences: gentle terrain (the island cores are hilly but the bridge paths are manageable), excellent sea views, small port towns with seafood restaurants, and mikan orange orchards on terraced hillsides. Giant Sky Road (Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge) near Imabari, the longest suspension bridge complex in Japan, has the most dramatic cycling approach. Bicycle rental is available at both endpoints with drop-off at the other end (advance reservation required). The route can be cycled in one long day (8–10 hours) or split over two days with accommodation at Oshima or Omishima island.
Uwajima: Bullring and Fish Market
Uwajima, in southern Ehime, 1.5 hours from Matsuyama by limited express, is known for two unusual attractions. Tōgyū (bull sumo) — bulls fighting each other (not humans) — has been practiced in Uwajima for over 400 years, with matches held at a hillside arena several times yearly. Uwajima Fisherman’s Market (Ujina) and the adjacent tai meshi (sea bream rice) restaurants serve the local specialty: raw or lightly poached sea bream over rice with a rich egg yolk and dashi sauce, eaten by fishermen who had ready access to the Inland Sea catch. Uwajima Castle is another of Japan’s 12 original keeps — small, elegant, and rarely crowded.
Practical Notes
Matsuyama is connected to Osaka by Ishizuchi limited express + Shinkansen (about 3 hours via Okayama) or by overnight ferry from Osaka/Kobe (arriving in Matsuyama Port in 9 hours — a pleasant overnight option). Regular flights connect Matsuyama Airport to Tokyo Haneda (70 minutes). Imabari, the Shimanami Kaido’s Shikoku endpoint, is 1 hour from Matsuyama by limited express. Ehime’s mikan season peaks in November–December; buying directly from farm roadside stands is both cheaper and a better product than supermarket fruit. The island of Ōshima on the Shimanami Kaido is particularly known for Tomonoura-style citrus and traditional boat-building heritage.