Japan’s Edo-period highway network — the Gokaido (Five Highways) radiating from Edo (Tokyo) — was one of history’s most sophisticated overland transport systems, maintained by a government that understood that controlled movement of people and goods was essential to political stability. Along these routes, post towns (shukuba-machi) developed to accommodate travellers, daimyo processions, and merchants. Many survive today with remarkable intactness.
The Nakasendo Highway
The Nakasendo connected Edo to Kyoto through the central mountain range, passing through 69 post towns over 534 kilometres. Tsumago and Magome in the Kiso Valley are the most celebrated — linked by an 8-kilometre walking path through cedar forest that passes working farms and roadside shrines. Both villages ban cars from their historic streets on weekends. Narai is larger and less visited than its famous neighbours, with a long intact main street of sake brewers and lacquer shops. The Okuwa and Nojiri sections offer even more isolated walking between well-spaced villages.
The Tokaido Highway
The coastal Tokaido between Edo and Kyoto was the most heavily trafficked of the Five Highways, immortalised by Hiroshige in his famous 53 Stations of the Tokaido woodblock series. Most of the original route is now buried under the JR Tokaido Line and modern roads, but several stations retain historical atmosphere. Hakone-juku (now Hakone town) preserves the mountain crossing section. Shimada in Shizuoka has a museum dedicated to the ooigawa river crossing — one of the most feared obstacles for Edo-period travellers.
Hokkoku Kaido and the Kaga Domain
The Hokkoku Kaido connecting the Nakasendo to Kanazawa passes through several well-preserved post towns in Nagano and Ishikawa. Shiojiri and Miyanokoshi retain stretches of original stone paving. Kanazawa itself was the domain capital of the powerful Kaga domain — its samurai, geisha, and merchant districts survive largely intact and offer one of Japan’s best encounters with Edo-period urban planning outside Kyoto.
Walking the Routes Today
The Kiso Valley section of the Nakasendo is the most accessible multi-day walking route: luggage forwarding services (takkyubin) move bags between accommodation while walkers travel light. The full Tsumago-to-Narai walk takes two to three days at a comfortable pace. Accommodation in machiya townhouses or minshuku guesthouses maintains the rhythm of the original highway culture. Spring (April-May) and autumn (October-November) are the best seasons — summer brings heat and humidity, while winter can close mountain sections.
Combining with Nearby Highlights
The Kiso Valley sits between Nagoya and Matsumoto — both accessible in under two hours. Matsumoto Castle, one of Japan’s finest original castles, pairs naturally with a Kiso Valley walk. Nagoya’s Tokugawa Art Museum holds Edo-period craft objects that contextualise what you see along the route. For broader slow-travel context, see the Japan slow travel guide and the rural travel guide.