Japan’s rainy season (tsuyu or baiu) runs from early June to mid-July across most of Honshu, Shikoku, and Kyushu. While often dreaded by travellers, the rainy season has its own beauty — lush green landscapes, hydrangea blooms, and misty mountain scenes. This guide covers what to expect and how to make the most of it.
When Is Rainy Season?
- Okinawa: Earliest; typically early May to mid-June.
- Kyushu and Shikoku: Early June to mid-July.
- Honshu (including Tokyo, Kyoto, Osaka): Mid-June to mid-July.
- Tohoku: Late June to late July.
- Hokkaido: No official tsuyu season; summer is relatively dry.
Hydrangea Viewing (Ajisai)
Hydrangeas (ajisai) bloom during tsuyu, and Japan treats hydrangea viewing with the same enthusiasm as cherry blossoms. Top spots:
- Meigetsuin (Kamakura): Famous for its round-window garden and 2,500 blue hydrangeas lining the approach path. Queue times are long at peak bloom — arrive before 9 am.
- Hasedera (Kamakura): Over 40 varieties of hydrangea on a hillside above the sea; the hillside path offers views over Kamakura bay.
- Hakusan Shrine (Tokyo): The Bunkyo Hydrangea Festival in mid-June turns the shrine grounds blue and purple.
- Tsuriganeso Roadside Park (Hyogo): A mountain slope covered in Ezo hydrangeas; less known, more spectacular.
- Mimurotoji Temple (Uji, Kyoto): 10,000 hydrangeas and wisteria in a temple garden near Uji; less crowded than Kamakura alternatives.
Rainy Season Travel Tips
- Umbrellas: Compact folding umbrellas are sold everywhere; convenience stores sell reliable options for around ¥700–¥1,000. Collapsible umbrellas sold at 100-yen shops work for occasional light rain.
- Crowds: Rainy season sees fewer international tourists than cherry blossom or autumn; popular sites are comparatively uncrowded on rainy weekdays.
- Photography: Overcast rainy light is excellent for temples, moss gardens, and hydrangea photography — softer than harsh summer sun.
- Indoor activities: Rainy days are ideal for museums, onsen, tea ceremony, and covered shopping arcades (shotengai).
- Not constant rain: Tsuyu brings more frequent rain but not necessarily all-day downpours. Mornings are often clear before afternoon showers.
For related content, see Japan rainy season guide, rainy day activities guide, and Kamakura travel guide.