Shikoku — Japan’s fourth-largest main island, connected to Honshu by the Seto Ohashi and Nishiseto Expressway bridge systems — is one of Japan’s least visited yet most rewarding regions. Its four prefectures (Kagawa, Tokushima, Kochi, Ehime) each have distinct identities, and the island is home to Japan’s most famous pilgrimage route. For residents, Shikoku offers a calmer, more traditional Japan than the crowded tourist circuits.
The Shikoku 88-Temple Pilgrimage
The Ohenro (お遍路) pilgrimage visits 88 Buddhist temples associated with the monk Kukai (Kobo Daishi, 774–835), who founded the Shingon sect and is said to have achieved enlightenment at Cape Muroto in Kochi. The full route covers approximately 1,200 km and takes 30–60 days on foot, 10–14 days by bicycle, or 7–10 days by car. Pilgrims (ohenro-san) wear white jackets (hakui), carry a wooden staff representing Kobo Daishi’s presence, and ring the bell at each temple before reciting sutras. Settai — gifts of food, drink, and small items given freely to pilgrims by locals — reflects the deeply embedded cultural respect for the pilgrimage. Residents who can’t commit to the full circuit often tackle one prefecture’s temples or several days of walking as partial pilgrimages, which is culturally accepted. The most dramatic sections are Cape Ashizuri (Temple 38) in Kochi and the mountain temples of inner Ehime.
Getting to and Around Shikoku
Three bridge systems connect Shikoku to Honshu. The Seto Ohashi (from Okayama) carries JR trains and road traffic — most visitors arrive this way. The Akashi Kaikyo / Naruto Bridges (from Kobe/Osaka via Awaji Island) carry road only — no train. The Nishiseto Expressway (Shimanami Kaido) (from Onomichi) is road-and-cycling, with a famous cycling route through Inland Sea islands. Within Shikoku, JR trains serve the major cities but rural areas require buses or cars. Rental car is strongly recommended for exploring beyond the four prefectural capitals. The Shikoku Freepass (for non-Japanese passport holders) allows unlimited JR travel within Shikoku for 3–5 days.
Iya Valley: Remote Mountain Villages
The Iya Valley in central Tokushima Prefecture is one of Japan’s most dramatic inland landscapes — V-shaped gorges carved by the Yoshino River, with villages perched on near-vertical slopes. The valley was a refuge for the defeated Heike clan after the 1185 Genpei War, and their cultural presence is still felt in local traditions. Kazura bridges — suspension bridges woven from mountain vine, rebuilt every three years — cross the river gorges. The most famous at Nishiiya requires a moderate nerve to cross (the vines are supplemented with steel cables). Remote hillside farmhouses have been converted into unusual accommodation; Chiiori farmhouse, restored by writer Alex Kerr, is bookable and among Japan’s most atmospheric rural stays.
Shikoku Food Culture
Each prefecture has distinct food signatures. Kagawa is Japan’s udon capital — per-capita udon consumption exceeds every other prefecture, with simple “sanuki udon” shops (some operating from home garages as “kamaboko-style” self-service counters) serving thick, chewy noodles at ¥200–400 per bowl. Kochi‘s katsuo (bonito) is served as katsuo no tataki — lightly seared and served with ponzu, garlic, and ginger, with an assertiveness unlike Tokyo-style sashimi. Ehime produces 70% of Japan’s mikan tangerines, with the Uwajima area also known for tai meshi (sea bream rice). Tokushima‘s sudachi citrus flavors noodles, seafood, and even ice cream throughout the prefecture. The Hirome Ichiba market in Kochi city is a famous food hall serving katsuo alongside local sake from afternoon to late evening.
Practical Tips for Shikoku Residents
Shikoku is most manageable in spring (cherry blossoms at mountain temples, April) and autumn (foliage in Iya Valley, October–November). Summer brings Tokushima’s Awa Odori festival (August 12–15) — Japan’s largest dance festival, drawing 1.3 million visitors. Winter is relatively mild on the coastal areas but the mountain interior receives snow. Accommodation in rural areas is mostly traditional minshuku and pilgrimage lodges (shukubo) — book well in advance for peak temple seasons. The pilgrimage’s official starting temple, Ryozen-ji (Temple 1), near Naruto in Tokushima, is easy to reach from the Honshu bridges and offers a genuine sense of the ohenro experience even in a single-day visit.