Hakone: Tokyo’s Perfect Escape
Hakone is Japan’s most accessible mountain resort, sitting in a volcanic caldera 80km southwest of Tokyo. It combines everything Japan does best in one compact area: clear views of Mt Fuji (when clouds cooperate), natural hot springs, world-class contemporary art, traditional ryokan, and dramatic volcanic landscapes. The entire area forms Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park. Most visitors come for a day trip or overnight stay; staying two nights allows you to fully appreciate why Hakone has been attracting visitors from Tokyo for centuries.
Getting to Hakone
- Odakyu Romancecar: Direct limited express from Shinjuku to Hakone-Yumoto in 85 minutes. Reservation required; surcharge on top of basic fare. Most scenic route
- Shinkansen + local: Shinkansen to Odawara (35 min from Tokyo), then Hakone Tozan Railway to Hakone-Yumoto (15 min). JR Pass covers the Shinkansen portion
- Hakone Free Pass: The Odakyu Hakone Free Pass covers round-trip Romancecar from Shinjuku plus unlimited use of all transport within Hakone (see below). 2-day or 3-day versions available. Excellent value for a multi-attraction visit
The Hakone Loop
Hakone is designed to be explored as a loop using multiple transport modes, each one a worthy experience in itself:
- Hakone Tozan Railway: Japan’s steepest mountain railway switches back up the mountain from Hakone-Yumoto to Gora. Hydrangeas line the tracks in June–July
- Hakone Tozan Cable Car: From Gora up to Sounzan (mountain summit area)
- Hakone Ropeway: Aerial gondola from Sounzan over the volcanic Owakudani valley — sulphurous steam vents below, Mt Fuji views ahead on clear days — to Togendai on Lake Ashi
- Lake Ashi Ferry: Pirate ship across Lake Ashi (Ashinoko) to Moto-Hakone, with views of Mt Fuji’s reflection (clear days). The famous vermilion torii gate of Hakone Shrine stands in the lake at Moto-Hakone
- Hakone Tozan Bus: Connects all areas and returns to Hakone-Yumoto
Top Attractions
Owakudani Valley
The volcanic Owakudani (“Great Boiling Valley”) is Hakone’s most dramatic landscape — a moonscape of sulphur vents and steaming hot springs created by a volcanic eruption 3,000 years ago. The black eggs (kuro-tamago) boiled in the sulphurous springs are said to add 7 years to your lifespan. The ropeway station and walking paths (when the volcanic activity level permits) offer intense volcanic scenery.
Hakone Open-Air Museum
One of Japan’s finest outdoor sculpture museums, with a large collection of Picasso ceramics and works by Rodin, Giacometti, Henry Moore, and Japanese sculptors spread across landscaped hillside gardens. The Foot Bath area lets you soak in natural hot spring water while looking at the sculptures. Admission ¥1,600; covered by the Hakone Free Pass.
Lake Ashi and Hakone Shrine
Lake Ashi fills the ancient volcanic caldera at 725m altitude. On clear days, Mt Fuji rises behind the lake — the view from the ferry or the Motohakone shore is among Japan’s most iconic. The torii gate of Hakone Shrine stands in the lake shallows; the shrine itself is in forest above the shore. The cedar avenue approach and the lakeside path are among Hakone’s most atmospheric walks.
Pola Museum of Art
A world-class modern art museum in the forest above Sengoku, with Impressionist and Post-Impressionist masterworks (Monet, Renoir, Picasso, Cézanne) alongside Japanese modern art. The building by Nikken Sekkei integrates forest light beautifully. Admission ¥1,800.
Onsen in Hakone
Hakone’s hot springs are among Japan’s finest, fed by volcanic groundwater. The hot spring towns (onsen-machi) of Hakone-Yumoto, Miyanoshita, and Kowakidani have been welcoming weary travellers since the Edo era. Options for experiencing onsen:
- Ryokan with onsen: Staying at a ryokan with private or shared hot spring baths is the quintessential Hakone experience. Rates from ¥15,000 per person per night including dinner and breakfast. Famously excellent: Fujiya Hotel (1878, historic), Gōra Kadan, Hakone Ginyu
- Day-use onsen (higaeri nyuyoku): Many ryokan and public facilities offer day-use bathing. Tenzan Tohji-kyo in Hakone-Yumoto is a popular riverside complex (¥1,300–¥1,500)
- Foot baths (ashiyu): Free foot baths at various locations including the Hakone Open-Air Museum
Mt Fuji Views from Hakone
Mt Fuji is visible from Hakone on clear days, particularly in autumn and winter (October–February) when the air is dry and clouds are minimal. Summer (especially August) is the worst season for visibility — heat and humidity create persistent haze. The best viewing spots: Lake Ashi (Moto-Hakone shore or ferry), Owakudani ropeway, and the lake-view rooms at hillside ryokan. Check the Fujisan.jp webcam to see current visibility before you go.
Practical Tips
- Hakone Free Pass: Buy at Shinjuku Odakyu counter or online. The 2-day pass pays for itself quickly with ropeway + museum + ferry + bus use
- Avoid weekend crowds: Hakone is extremely popular on weekends. Ropeway queues can exceed 60 minutes at Owakudani on busy Saturdays. Weekday visits are significantly calmer
- Mt Fuji visibility: October–February gives the best odds. Check forecast the morning of your visit; plans often need adjusting
- Volcanic caution: When alert levels are elevated, the Owakudani ropeway may be suspended. Check the Hakone Ropeway website before visiting
- Luggage forwarding: Yamato Transport takkyubin (luggage forwarding) allows you to send bags to your Hakone ryokan from Tokyo hotels before departure — ask your Tokyo hotel front desk