Sushi in Japan is a fundamentally different experience from sushi abroad — not because of snobbishness, but because the ingredients, traditions, and eating contexts have developed over two centuries in ways that reward some understanding. This guide covers how to eat at a Japanese sushi restaurant with confidence, from a standing kaiten-zushi bar to a high-end omakase counter.
Types of Sushi Restaurant
Kaiten-zushi (conveyor belt) is fast food sushi — plates circulate on a belt, you take what you like, and plates are counted at the end (¥100–300/plate). Kura Sushi, Sushiro, and Hama Sushi are the main chains; quality has improved dramatically and these are genuinely good. Counter sushi (itamae-mae, chef-in-front) ranges from affordable standing bars (tachi-gui zushi, ¥300–500/piece) to mid-range counter restaurants (¥3,000–8,000/person) to high-end omakase (¥20,000–50,000+). Omakase means ‘I leave it to you’ — the chef selects every piece based on what is best that day. At the highest level, an omakase course is a tasting menu of 15–25 pieces over 90 minutes, where the chef explains each piece as it is served.
Etiquette at the Counter
At a counter sushi restaurant: hands or chopsticks — both are correct; nigiri was traditionally eaten by hand (the rice warms the fish and the diner’s body heat is part of the intended experience). Soy sauce: dip the fish side, not the rice side — the rice absorbs too much and the flavors overwhelm; many high-end chefs brush pieces with their own nikiri (cooked soy sauce reduction) and prefer you eat without additional soy. Wasabi: at high-end counters, the chef applies it between rice and fish — asking for extra is fine, asking for it on the side is a minor breach of protocol at the very top level. Ginger (gari) is a palate cleanser between pieces, not a condiment to eat with the sushi. Ordering: starting with lighter white fish and progressing to fatty tuna and egg is the traditional sequence; at omakase, the chef manages this.
Key Seasonal Fish
Japanese sushi culture is organized around seasonality: spring — cherry blossom sea bream (sakura-dai), firefly squid. Summer — aji (horse mackerel), iwashi (sardine), shirouo (whitebait). Autumn — sanma (Pacific saury), salmon, new-harvest uni. Winter — toro (fatty bluefin tuna, January–March peak), hirame (flounder), kaki (oyster). Omakase at a skilled counter in any season will track these peaks precisely.
- Tokyo’s Tsukiji Outer Market has standing sushi bars open from 05:00 — the quality-to-price ratio is Japan’s best.
- Reservations at top omakase counters (Sukiyabashi Jiro, Sushi Saito, etc.) require Japanese-speaking connections or specialist booking services; waiting lists of months to years are common.
- Mid-range counter sushi (¥5,000–10,000) in Tokyo’s Ginza, Shimbashi, or Yotsuya neighborhoods is excellent and bookable on Tableall or Tabelog with some effort.