Yakushima is a circular island off the southern tip of Kyushu, dense with forest, wrapped in mist, and home to cedar trees that have been alive for thousands of years. A UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1993, it is one of Japan’s most primordial landscapes — a place where the age of the trees changes how you experience time itself.
Yakusugi: The Ancient Cedars
Yakusugi (屋久杉) is the name given to Japanese cedar (Cryptomeria japonica) trees on Yakushima that are over 1,000 years old. The island’s granite mountains, reaching 1,936 metres at Miyanoura-dake, create one of Japan’s heaviest rainfall zones — some areas receive over 8,000 mm per year. The combination of altitude, rainfall, and thin, mineral-poor soil slows cedar growth to a fraction of the mainland rate, producing extraordinarily dense, resin-rich timber that resists decay for millennia. Trees under 1,000 years are called kosugi (young cedar).
Jōmon Sugi: The Oldest Tree
Jōmon Sugi is Yakushima’s most celebrated tree and the subject of the island’s most demanding day hike. Discovered in 1966, it stands at 1,300 metres elevation, measures 16.4 metres in circumference, and is estimated at 2,170–7,200 years old (the wide range reflects differing dating methods). Reaching it requires a 10-km walk each way along a disused forest railway track followed by a forest trail — approximately 8–10 hours round trip. Start by 5 am in summer to make the full return before dark. Trekking poles, waterproof gear, and sufficient food and water are essential.
Shiratani Unsuikyō Ravine
The Shiratani Unsuikyō ravine offers a more accessible ancient forest experience: a network of trails from 2 to 6 hours that winds through moss-draped cedars, crystal streams, and granite boulders. The landscape here is said to have inspired Studio Ghibli’s Princess Mononoke (1997) — a fact that has made it a pilgrimage site for animation fans. The trail’s centrepiece is the Yayoi Sugi, a 3,000-year-old cedar you can pass beneath. Trail entry is free; arrive early to avoid afternoon crowds.
Yakumonkey & Sea Turtles
Yakushima supports Japan’s only wild population of Yaku macaques (Macaca fuscata yakui), a subspecies adapted to the island’s cold mountain forests. They are habituated to hikers and are frequently encountered on forest paths — do not feed them. The island’s low sandy beaches, particularly Inakahama on the west coast, are major nesting sites for loggerhead sea turtles (Caretta caretta) from May to August. Authorised evening turtle-watching tours depart from Yakushima township; direct torchlight is prohibited.
Getting to Yakushima
From Kagoshima: Toppy/Rocket high-speed ferry (1 hr 50 min, ¥8,000+) or car ferry (4 hrs, cheaper). Flights from Kagoshima (35 min, JAC) and Osaka Itami are available. On-island transport is limited: rental car or scooter is recommended for independent exploration. The island is circular (~130 km circumference) and can be driven in half a day. Two main access points for trekking: Yakusugi Land (mid-altitude, bus accessible) and Shiratani Unsuikyō (bus in season).
Best Season & Practical Tips
March–May for rhododendron blooms and moderate weather. July–August peak season: lush green but typhoon risk and heavy rain. October–November quieter with cleaner air. The island averages 35 rainy days per month — a saying goes “it rains 35 days a month on Yakushima.” Waterproof everything: jacket, pack cover, and boots. Accommodation is limited; book guesthouses or lodge rooms months ahead for spring and summer. Multi-day traversal of the island’s mountain ridge (requiring a tent and mountain experience) is one of Japan’s finest hiking challenges.