The Ryokan: Japan’s Traditional Inn
A ryokan is a traditional Japanese inn offering accommodation in tatami-mat rooms, kaiseki multi-course cuisine, and communal bathing in onsen (hot spring) or large bathing halls. The ryokan experience is structured around a set of customs and courtesies that differ substantially from Western hotel norms — and understanding these customs in advance significantly increases the quality of the stay. Ryokan range from grand historic establishments with centuries of operation to small family-run inns in rural onsen towns, but the core customs apply throughout.
Check-In and Entrance
Check-in is typically between 3–5pm; dinner service begins at 6–7pm and rooms are prepared while guests bathe before dinner. The entrance (genkan) requires shoes to be removed at the step — shoes are placed neatly to the side or in a locker, and slippers are worn inside. Upon entering, guests are greeted by a staff member (nakai-san) who may escort them to their room and serve tea and wagashi (Japanese sweets). The room will have a low table, floor cushions, and a folded yukata (cotton robe) in the cupboard.
Yukata
Yukata should be worn throughout the ryokan: for wandering the corridors, visiting the baths, and during dinner if a private dining room is used (confirm with staff). Men wear the yukata with the left side crossing over the right (as with all Japanese robes when worn by the living — right over left is for the deceased). The obi (sash) is tied in a simple knot at the front or side. An additional padded jacket (hanten or tanzen) is usually provided for colder weather. Indoor slippers are exchanged for wooden geta sandals when stepping into the garden.
Onsen Bathing
Most ryokan have communal bathing separated by gender, with some offering private baths (kashikiri-buro) by reservation. The sequence is: remove yukata and towel in the changing room (leave your belongings in a basket or locker); take a small modesty towel; shower thoroughly at the seated shower stations before entering the bath; enter the hot spring bath slowly; do not submerge the towel in the bath water — fold it and place on your head or at the bath’s edge; do not drain the bathwater after use. Guests with tattoos should confirm the inn’s policy in advance — many traditional onsen prohibit visible tattoos.
Kaiseki Dinner
Kaiseki dinner — typically 8–12 courses — is served either in the room or in a private dining area and begins around the time agreed at check-in. The sequence moves from appetisers through soup, sashimi, grilled, simmered, and fried courses to rice and pickles and ends with dessert. Sake, beer, and local spirits are ordered separately; many ryokan offer a local sake selection. Dietary preferences should be communicated in advance (not at the table); the kitchen will accommodate most requirements with notice. Tipping is not practised at Japanese ryokan — gratuities left in the room at check-out are considered awkward.
Room Use and Bedding
The tatami room is multi-purpose: the low table used for dinner is cleared and the futon (floor mattress and duvet) is laid out by staff while guests are at dinner or bathing. Futon should not be used as seating or walked on with slippers. Chairs are not typically provided in tatami rooms; the correct posture at the low table is either seiza (kneeling) or cross-legged, both equally acceptable for guests. Most ryokan now provide a bed-frame option in a separate room — confirm when booking if tatami floor sleeping is a concern.